Litaba le Tobetsa

Sid Vicious o ne a ke ke a lumela hore na liaparo tsa hae tsa khale li ne li le bokae le hore maqheka a ne a ka etsa boiteko bo boholo ba ho li qhekella.
Hase khale haholo, rahistori oa pop culture ea London Paul Gorman, sengoli sa The Life and Times of Malcolm McLaren: A Biography, le morekisi oa Rock Fashion Paul Gorman ba ile ba fumana sengoathoana sa Marr.Shirt ea Malcolm McLaren.Vivienne Westwood's Seditionaries label, hoo e ka bang ka 1977, bakeng sa tlhahlobo.
E entsoe ka muslin 'me e na le setšoantšo se hlokomelehang hang-hang sa moetsi oa litšoantšo Jamie Reid bakeng sa letsoho la "Anarchy in the UK" ea Sex Pistols e le 'ngoe.
Haeba e le 'nete, e tla fumana theko e ntle fantising.Fantising ea Bonhams ka Mots'eanong, hempe ea 1977 ea Monghali McLaren le Mofumahali Westwood e rekisitsoe ka $6,660, hammoho le jesi e sa tloaelehang ea mohair e ntšo le e khubelu e khabisitsoeng ka lehata le. crossbones le "Sex Pistols" No Future "Lyrics" e rekisoa ka $8,896.
Leha ho le joalo, Mong Gorman o ne a sa kholoe hore hempe eo a neng a e hlahloba ke seo mong'a sona a neng a se bolela.
Monghali Gorman o itse: “Mamosleme ha a sa sebetsa libakeng tse ling.” Empa libakeng tse ling lesela le ne le ntse le le lecha haholo.Enke e ne e se boleng ba 1970s 'me ha ea ka ea ata leselang.Ha a botsoa ka mokhoa ona, morekisi o ile a ntša sengoathoana seo ntlong ea fantisi mme a re se rekisitsoe boinotšing.
Rea u amohela lefatšeng le makatsang le le nang le chelete e ngata la li-punk tsa fake. Lilemong tse 30 tse fetileng, batho ba iketsa eka ba entsoe ka matsoho ka meralo ea mantlha e kenyelletsang litšoantšo tsa S-and-M le litšoantšo tse litšila, maqheka a macha le likhoele, mekhoa e setseng ea sesole, li-tweed le latex - Sid Vicious le lithaka tsa hae ho Anarchy Se ileng sa tsebahala mehleng ea likhopolo - e fetohile indasteri ea kholo.
"Ke fumana mangolo-tsoibila a 'maloa khoeli e 'ngoe le e 'ngoe ke botsa hore na ho na le ntho ea nnete," ho boletse Steven Philip, ralifi tsa feshene, 'mokelli le moeletsi. "Nke ke ka kenya letsoho.Batho ba reka khauta ea maoatla.Kamehla ho na le li-fakes tse 500 bakeng sa 'nete. ”
Ka lilemo tse mashome a mahlano, Mong McLaren le Mme Westwood ba butse lebenkele la bona la li-counterculture, Let It Rock, 430 King's Road, London. Lebenkele leo, leo hona joale le tsejoang e le Worlds End, ke sebaka sa tsoalo ea feshene ea seterateng. Beng ba lona ke baqapi ba hlalositseng. sebaka sa punk.
Lilemong tse 10 tse latelang, lebenkele lena le ile la fetoloa ho ba Sex and Seditionaries, la hlahisa chebahalo le molumo o nang le litlamorao tse kholo, ka hona o ne o ka bokelloa. ea “Vivienne Westwood Catwalk.” “Linako tsa tsona tsa tlhahiso li khutšoanyane, liaparo lia tura, ’me batho ba atisa ho li reka le ho li apara ho fihlela li senyeha.”
Motsamaisi oa bonono oa Dior le Fendi, Kim Jones, o na le mosebetsi o mongata oa mantlha mme o lumela hore "Westwood le McLaren ba thehile polane ea liaparo tsa sejoale-joale.E ne e le batho ba bonang lipono,” o re.
Limusiamo tse ngata le tsona li bokella lintho tsena.Michael Costiff, socialite, interior designer and curator of the World Archives for Dover Street Market Stores, e ne e le moreki oa pele oa Monghali McLaren le Mofumahali Westwood. Liaparo tse 178 tseo a ileng a li bokella le mosali oa hae, Gerlinde, li se li le pokellong ea Musiamo oa Victoria le Albert, o rekileng pokello ea Monghali Costiff ka 2002 ka £42,500 ho Letlole la Sechaba la Pokello ea Bonono.
Boleng ba vintage McLaren le Westwood ba etsa hore e be sepheo sa masholu a feshene.Boemong bo hlakileng ka ho fetisisa, likopi li fumaneha Inthaneteng 'me li rekisoa ka ho toba le ka theko e tlaase, ntle le thetso - setšoantšo se tloaelehileng feela ka t-shirt e bonolo.
"Sekhechana sena se tsoa semelong sa lefats'e la bonono," ho boletse Paul Stolper, ralitaba ea lulang London eo pokello ea hae e mengata ea mesebetsi ea pele ea punk e seng e le Metropolitan Museum of Art." Setšoantšo kapa tse peli tsa nako e itseng, joalo ka Che. Guevara kapa Marilyn, e qetella e fetisoa ka setso sa rona.Sex Pistols e hlalosa mehla, kahoo litšoantšo li lula li etsoa hape. ”
Ho boetse ho na le li-fakes tse hlakileng, joalo ka sekipa se theko e tlaase sa Fruit of the Loom se nang le Mickey Mouse ea thakhisitsoeng, kapa marikhoe a botlamuoa a "SEX original" a $190 a tsoang ho A Store Robot e Tokyo, a ka lemohuoang habonolo hore ha se a mantlha. lesela le lecha le taba ea hore mokhoa ona ha o e-s'o ka o etsoa lilemong tsa bo-1970. 'Maraka oa Japane o tletse ka li-fakes.
Selemong se fetileng, Monghali Gorman o ile a fumana seaparo se bitsoang "Vintage Seditionaries Vivienne Westwood 'Charlie Brown' White T-Shirt" ho eBay UK, seo a se rekileng e le thuto ea nyeoe ka £100 (hoo e ka bang $139) .
O ile a re: “Ke mohlala o thahasellisang oa ho qhekella.” Ha ho mohla e kileng ea e-ba teng.Empa tlatsetso ea lepetjo la 'Tshenyeho' le tlhaselo ea ho leka ho sebelisa sebapali sa lipopae se ratoang haholo se bontšitsoeng ka tsela e khahlano le setso se tataisang katamelo ea McLaren le Westwood.Ke sebelisa setsebi.
Mohlolohali oa Mong McLaren, Young Kim, o sebelitse ka thata ho theosa le lilemo ho boloka lefa le lefa la hae. "Ke ile ka ea Metropolitan Museum ka 2013 ho ea hlahloba pokello ea bona," Mofumahali King o boletse. tsona e ne e le tsa bohata.Liaparo tsa pele li ne li le nyenyane.Malcolm o ile a etsa hore ba lekane eena le Vivienne.Liaparo tse ngata tsa Met li ne li le khōlō 'me li lekana le li-pre-punk tsa kajeno. "
Ho na le matšoao a mang. ”Ba na le borikhoe ba li-tweed le ba letlalo, tse sa tloaelehang ebile ke tsa 'nete," Mofumahali King o itse.Ho roka ho ka holim'a letheka, eseng ka hare, joalokaha ho ne ho tla ba holim'a seaparo se entsoeng hantle.Mme D-ring e ncha haholo. "
Mosebetsi oa pontšo ea "Punk: Ho tloha Chaos ho ea Haute Couture" oa Met oa 2013 o ile oa lebisa tlhokomelo e itseng ka mor'a hore Mofumahali King le Monghali Gorman ba fane ka maikutlo phatlalatsa ka liqoso tsa bohata le tse ngata tse sa lumellaneng tsa pontšo.
Empa ho na le lipotso mabapi le mosebetsi o neng o kene setsing sa pokello ea nalane lilemo tse robeli pejana.Mehlala e kenyelletsa sutu ea bokhoba e ileng ea hlahella haholo lenaneong la "Anglomania" la 2006, le hlahisitsoeng ke mohoebi oa lintho tsa khale tsa London Simon Easton, le k'hamphani e hiriloeng ea Westwood le McLaren ea Punk. Pistol Collection, e faneng ka li-stylists le baetsi ba lifilimi, le 2003, Monghali Stone oa Iraq le molekane oa hae oa khoebo, Gerald Bowey, ba thehile musiamo inthaneteng.
"Ka selemo sa 2015, likotoana tse peli tsa McLaren-Westwood pokellong ea rona li ile tsa ikemisetsa hore ke tsa fake," ho boletse Andrew Bolton, mohlokomeli ea ka sehloohong Setsing sa Metropolitan Costume." Mesebetsi e ile ea khutlisoa hamorao.Patlisiso ea rona sebakeng sena e ntse e tsoela pele. ”
Monghali Gorman o ile a romela Monghali Bolton mangolo-tsoibila a 'maloa moo a ileng a re mesebetsi e meng letotong lena e na le mathata, empa Monghali Gorman o ile a re Monghali Bolton ha a sa mo araba.'Muelli oa Setsi sa Costume o re likarolo tsena li hlahlobiloe ke litsebi ka makhetlo a fetang le le leng. Bolton o hanne ho fana ka maikutlo a mang bakeng sa sengoloa sena.
Mong Easton, ea neng a hana ho fana ka maikutlo mabapi le sengoloa sena, o boletse ka lengolo-tsoibila hore Mong Bowie o ne a mo buella, empa lebitso la hae le ke ke la hlakoloa nalaneng ea bohata ea punk. e nkuoa ke ba bangata e le sesebelisoa se tšepahalang sa polokelo bakeng sa meralo ea mantlha ea McLaren le Westwood.
Leha ho le joalo, Monghali Bowie o re ho sa tsotellehe boiteko ba bona bo matla ba ho tiisa pokello, “tsela e sa reroang eo liaparo li ileng tsa emoloa ka eona qalong, ho hlahisoa le ho etsoa hape e ile ea e sitisa.Kajeno, esita le ka lethathamo la lethathamo la lifantisi, lirisiti le maemong a mang a tsoang lengolong la Westwood, liaparo tsena li ntse li tsekisanoa.”
Ka la 9 Loetse 2008, Monghali McLaren o ile a tsebisoa ka lekhetlo la pele ka boholo ba bomenemene bo mo potileng le Mme Westwood ka lengolo-tsoibila le sa tsejoeng le rometsoeng ke Monghali Gorman bakeng sa sehlooho sena le ho netefatsoa ke Mme Kim.
“Cheaters wake up to fakes!” reads the subject line, and the sender is only identified as “Minnie Minx” from deadsexpistol@googlemail.com.A number of people from the London fashion industry have been accused of conspiracy in the email, which also refers to a 2008 court case involving Scotland Yard.
"Ka mor'a litlaleho, mapolesa a ile a hlasela malapa a Croydon le Eastbourne, moo a ileng a fumana mangolo a agitator," ho boletse lengolo-tsoibila.Amohela Mong Grant Howard le Mong Lee Parker.
Grant Champkins-Howard, eo hona joale e leng DJ tlas'a lebitso la Grant Dale, le Lee Parker, plumber, ba ile ba qosoa Lekhotleng la Crown la Kingston ka Phuptjane 2010, Moahloli Susan Matthews o boletse.Ke "ba leshano ba mehleng ea khale". Thepa ea bona e ile ea hlaseloa ka 'nete ka 2008 ke Metropolitan Arts and Antiquities Fraud Squad 'me ea hapa thepa le thepa e amanang le eona eo ho thoeng ke ea bohata ea McLaren le Westwood, hammoho le litšoantšo tse hatisitsoeng tsa Banksy tse 120 .
Ba babeli hamorao ba ile ba fumanoa ba le molato oa ho thetsa mosebetsi oa Banksy.Mong.McLaren, eena feela moetsi oa liaparo tsa pele tsa Sex le Seditionaries ea ikemiselitseng ho fana ka bopaki, o ile a kōptjoa hore a hlahlobe lintho tse hapuoeng 'me a fane ka lintlha tse bontšang hore liaparo tseo e ne e le tsa bohata: boholo bo fosahetseng ba litlhaku tsa stencil, masela a sa lumellaneng, tšebeliso ea YKK ho e-na le li-zippers tsa Lehalima. , Grafiken e sa nepahalang le tee ea khale e tšoeu.
“O ne a halefile,” ho boletse Mofumahali King.” O ne a ikutloa a le matla haholo ka ho sireletsa le ho sireletsa mosebetsi oa hae.E ne e le ea bohlokoa ho eena.”Kamora hore tshebedisano-mmoho pakeng tsa Monghadi McLaren le Mme Westwood e senyehe ka 1984, ho bile le boemo bo phahameng ba nako e telele pakeng tsa bobedi Ba bona ha ho a ka ha rarollwa, mme tsitsipano e ile ya baka sekgeo bakeng sa baqhekelli.
Monghali Howard le Monghali Parker ba ile ba fuoa likahlolo tse emisitsoeng nyeoeng ea Banks, empa nyeoe ea liaparo tsa bohata e ile ea hlakoloa ha Monghali McLaren a hlokahala ka 2010 hobane e ne e le paki ea bohlokoa bakeng sa mochochisi tšimong.
Leha ho le joalo, ho ile ha fumaneha hore lelapa la Mof Westwood le ka be le thehile kapa le hlohlelletsa indasteri eo e seng ea nnete ea punk.” Ke ile ka etsa likhatiso tse fokolang tsa meralo ea pele ho bokella chelete ea ho qala Agent Provocateur,” ho boletse Joe Corré, mora oa Monghali McLaren le Mof. Westwood, ea ileng a bula liaparo tsa hae tsa ka tlaase khoebong ea 1994.
Monghali Corré o itse: “Re ile ra etsa sekipa sa lesapo la khoho le sekipa sa 'Venus'. .”Pele ho likopi tsena tse qaqileng le tse theko e boima, likopi tsa mesebetsi li ne li lekanyelitsoe ho li-silkscreens tse hlakileng tsa T-shirts Ho hatisa, lebelo la tlhahiso le potlakile, 'me theko e tlase haholo.
Mong. Corré o itse Vivienne Westwood o fane ka tumello ea ho etsa likopi.McLaren o ne a halefile.Ka lengolo-tsoibila la la 14 Mphalane 2008 ho sehlopha se kenyeletsang moqolotsi oa litaba Steven Daly, Mong McLaren o ngotse: “Ke mang ea ba lumelletseng ho etsa see?Ke ile ka bolella Joe hore a emise hang-hang ’me a mo ngolle .Ke halefile.”
Monghali Corré, eo e sa tsoa ba motsamaisi oa Vivienne Foundation, “o sebelisa tokelo ea litokelo tsa molao tsa mosebetsi oa hae ka tsela e bontšang kutloelo-bohloko ho bokella chelete bakeng sa mabaka a sa tšoaneng.”O itse o tla hlahloba mokhoa oa ho "felisa" ho qhekella. Mofumahali King o ntse a tsoela pele ho loanela lefa la Monghali McLaren mme o lumela hore o ntse a hlakoloa khafetsa nalaneng ea hae.
Khoebo ea Mong. Easton le Mr. Bowey ea lithunya tsa punk e ntse e tsoela pele ho rekisa mosebetsi oa Mme Westwood le Mong McLaren ka lebenkele la Etsy SeditionariesInTheUK, bao bongata ba bona ba nang le lengolo la setifikeiti ho tsoa ho Khampani ea Vivienne Westwood, e saennoeng, e entsoeng le ho bolokoa ke Murray Blewett. Tsena li ne li kenyelletsa lihempe tse mebala-bala tse nang le likholara tsa Peter Pan le lipeche tsa silika tse sothehileng tsa Karl Marx, le lijase tsa rabara tsa k'hothone tse bululetsoeng ke Levi.
Marang-rang ha a thata joalo ka matlo a mangata a fantisi, 'me ba ne ba ke ke ba fana ka maikutlo mabapi le sengoloa sena, empa ba re ba emela feela mesebetsi e nang le bopaki ba ho thibela likulo, ke hore linepe tsa mong'a liaparo tsa bo-1970.
Monghali Gorman o itse: "Ho bohlokoa ho utloisisa hore bahlaseluoa ba bangata ba ho qhekelloa ke bahlaseluoa ba ikemiselitseng." Ba hlile ba batla ho lumela hore ke karolo ea pale ea mantlha.Ke seo feshene e leng sona, na ha ho joalo?Tsohle li susumetsoa ke takatso.”